Two Feet and a Ferry: Traveling to Fanø, Denmark Car-Free
On the enchanting shores of Denmark, my partner and I embarked on a unique holiday adventure to Fanø Island in the southern part of Denmark. With our ‘tireless’ determination (and I mean, literally ‘tireless’ since we had no car!), we set out to explore every nook and cranny of this enchanting island and cozy up in our holiday home. In this article, I give some useful tips on how we have managed very well without a car.
The Preparation: Less is More
Packing for a car-free holiday is simpler than you think. Having to carry things helps a lot in setting priorities. Here were ours. My partner and I each packed our major necessities in normal-sized backpacks, including clothing and bathroom products. You need less stuff than you think. We also brought along another bag with a gaming console (and its TV station) and non-electronic games for some cozy gaming sessions. We minimized our environmental impact and the carrying weight by filling reusable bottles with the needed cleaning products. And, of course, we remembered to pack toilet paper — a must for any holiday home.
A tip for those visiting in autumn or spring: pack both a rain poncho and a rain jacket. You can wear the rain jacket also on normal days, but the poncho will be extremely handy for windy days with or without bicycle rides.
The Stay: Estimate your daily routes
For the ultimate car-free experience, it’s best to book accommodations in the northern part of the island, such as Rindby or Nordby. Otherwise, your journey to your apartment might be a tad too lengthy after your arrival on the island. There you have a great wide beach with beautiful dunes (and holiday homes buried in these dunes).
We stayed near Fanø Bad and had a bike-sharing station 3 minutes away. A supermarket was in either 20 or 29-minute walking distance. By bike, it would be no more than 5 to 8 minutes. You can check this out with Google Maps ahead of booking.
We had wisely booked a special package that included towels and bed linens; otherwise, lugging them around would have been a hefty task.
The Journey: A Train Ride to Remember
Our journey started in Hamburg without causing any additional costs: We used our “Deutschlandticket,” a regional train flat-rate ticket in Germany that took us to Flensburg. We had it anyway for commuting to work. From there, we used a European flex price ticket to Esbjerg, Denmark. Surprisingly, the flex ticket was quite affordable, just one euro more than a fixed-time ticket. We booked it in advance, but the prices wouldn’t go up if you get it the same day.
However, on our way from Lunderskov to Esbjerg, we encountered an unexpected train cancelation which lasted a couple of hours. Our saviors were friendly locals who helped us translate the announcements. But you get the same information in English (and real-time updates) also from the official train travel (web) app in Denmark “Rejseplanen”.
For all the critics due to hourly train delays: If you’re traveling by car, you could just as easily find yourself stuck in traffic. And this with no chance to buy magnificent Danish cinnamon rolls while waiting! Additionally, we met some fellow travelers who raved about the Danish train service, assuring us that such incidents were rare.
Arriving in Esbjerg, a 25-minute walk led us to the ferry station. Along the way, we marveled at the vibrant city and its nice pedestrian zone. Tickets for the ferry, which also covered the return journey, were conveniently available at the station, costing us only 8 euros per pedestrian.
On the island, bicycles are available for rent, either through the flexible bicycle-sharing Donkey Republic app or local bike shops (but these local shops are not near the ferry station). Or you could walk your way to the final stay. But we recommend taking the bike.
The Activities: Exploring Fanø’s Charm
Our days on Fanø Island were filled with enchantment. Exploring the ever-changing landscape, we embarked on delightful walks and bike rides. With rented bicycles, we even journeyed to the south and explored the national park, though we quickly learned to beware of the gusty winds when they were not in our favor, which made cycling a tad challenging.
Our daily ritual included a walk to the supermarket, an activity we cleverly combined with indulging in cinnamon rolls — a delicious treat for our taste buds and a reward for our efforts.
Anyway, the island is simply beautiful. With two legs and a free choice of route, you can get to beautiful corners even without planning.
The Conclusion: A Journey with Memories
As our adventure neared its end, we realized that we didn’t want to take more home than we’d brought with us. We planned our meals therefore thoughtfully. On our final evening, we made it a mission to finish any leftovers. Even though we would have loved to do many more taco evenings. In general, as Germans, it’s quite funny what supermarket significance tacos in Scandinavia have.
Heading back was as easy as the journey to the island, with no need to worry about ferry tickets — our initial ticket covered both trips. With hearts full of cherished memories, we departed Fanø Island, leaving behind only footprints and the promise to return one day.
So, if you’re seeking an unforgettable car(e)-free adventure, set your sights on Fanø Island, where cozy stays, enchanting landscapes, and delicious cinnamon rolls await. Enjoy your stay, and may it be as heartwarming as ours!
